Food & Wine names Oakland's Burdell 'Restaurant of the Year'

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Burdell chef/owner Geoff Davis. Photo: EVA KOLENKO

OAKLAND, Calif. - Food & Wine magazine on Wednesday announced that its editors chose an Oakland establishment as its "Restaurant of the Year."

That honor goes to Burdell, a soul-food restaurant in the Temescal District owned by Chef Geoff Davis, who pays homage to his maternal grandmother, Burdell Demby, in both his cooking and the vibe.

Customers head to Burdell's for Davis' famous pork chops, BBQ shrimp, chicken and waffles, and collard greens with smoked ham hock.

"Why can’t soul food be a little different?" Davis is quoted as saying to Food & Wine. "Why can’t it be a fresh take? Why can’t the food evolve and change with the times?"

Even the restaurant's decorations inspire what Davis calls "grandma energy," according to a news release from Food & Wine.

Soul food at Burdell in Oakland. Photo: EVA KOLENKO

He hopes the 1970s-inspired décor, vintage Pyrex plates, and nostalgic playlists create a warm, nostalgic atmosphere.

"The food at Burdell is grounded in the past, forward-looking, and brain-meltingly delicious," Food & Wine editor Raphael Brion wrote. Dining there feels like inhabiting a memory you haven’t quite had yet."

Davis is on a hot streak.

In November, his restaurant was named one of Esquire’s top restaurants in the U.S. It got a nod from Michelin as a "new discovery" in March — and in April, Davis was a James Beard finalist for "Best Chef: California."

Davis wants to pay this positive energy forward.

According to Food & Wine, his restaurant strives to be an equitable workplace.

Brudell pays 50% of health care costs for full-time employees.

No one makes six figures at Burdell, Food & Wine points out, including management and ownership. But the processes and work environment have resulted in near-zero staff turnover since opening.

"We’re just human beings," Davis told the magazine. "Sometimes the best that we can [do] is less good than we envisioned, but we live to fight another day. Everyone’s happy and intact, and we can raise a glass later."